Daily journal of my 3000km hike across New Zealand, Te Araroa, the Long Pathway.
I wake up with my favourite combination of sunrise and coffee, then quickly pack for a diverse day of walking. Forest, mountains, waterfalls, swamp, alpine fields and some farmland - we see it all today.
We cross the Ahuriri river and camp at a nice mountain stream, where we have dinner while a thousand sandflies feast on us. Time to hide in our tents until the following day.
Although a terrible day of rain was forecasted, we woke up to a promising friendly sky. Our hopes turned into reality when the spots of blue expanded and the sun peeked through. Excellent conditions to take a higher alternative route today, the Melina Ridge Track.
Impatient to get there before the clouds, I hiked up in record speed and once again experienced how strong my legs have gotten - they're pretty awesome I must say 😁
The whole day turned out unexpectedly spectacular, with good weather, great views and an adventurous trail. The cherry on top was our beautiful camping spot, right next to a waterfall that made for the best forest shower ever!
Lucky as we were yesterday, today we got the predicted downpour. Packing up soaking wet, we started our muddy river walk. Steep ledges, muddy ascents, slippery rocks: we hiked it all while torrential rain kept on falling. Even so, it was beautiful and the challenge still fun.
While scrambling up a long, steep and muddy trail, the sky began to clear up just before we reached the first real views. Further up, the clouds made way for the sun and we had a very enjoyable afternoon ridgewalk. Climbing up to Breast Hill, we were rewarded with great views of lakes Hawea and Wanaka.
Strong winds tried to blow us off the ridge, but we made it down safely to the modern mountain hut where we'll sleep tonight.
With an incredibly beautiful descent we arrive at Lake Hawea, where we treat ourselves to a huge portion of fish & chips for lunch. We have another 27 km left to walk after this, which we do very fast-paced.
The walk towards Wanaka is beautiful, following a bright blue river that turns into a stunning blue lake. We make two small stops, to celebrate passing 2600 kms and to stuff our faces with sugar, but then make a dash to the campsite.
Having pitched our tents we are too lazy to walk any more, so we hitch to the city center to have a healthy plate full of veggies.
Day 135: Rest day in Wanaka
After starting the day with a flat white and a sweet treat, it's time to head back into the mountains. The trail goes along the lakeshore for a while, giving us time to admire the brilliant blue of lake Wanaka surrounded by stunning mountains.
At the next bay, we turn landinwards, following a creek into a forest and then up into the hills. When we arrive at the hut we're the first ones there and nobody joins us later, so we have it all to ourselves!
We started the day with a climb and a descent, both with beautiful ridge parts overlooking nothing but rows of mountains and valleys with rivers. We continued with another up and down, and another one. And finally we decided to tackle the last saddle as well. Grand total: 2178 meters up and 2108 down. 💪
And we didn't stop then, either. Terrified of cold and numb feet in the morning, we pushed on and walked 5 kilometers along and mostly IN a river.
Exhausted but satisfied we quickly set up camp and had dinner. Not much later, the last daylight disappeared - it's really autumn now.
We woke up before the sandflies, crawling out of our damp sleeping bags to face the cold and dark morning. Time to push ourselves again, we want to make it to Queenstown today!
After a good climb up, we follow a scenic path that slowly descends into Arrowtown, where we have a quick lunch at the famed bakery. The mountainous part of the day is done, but we still have 30 kilometers to go.
We walk in fast pace past lakes and rivers, through suburbs and over roads, until we reach Queenstown and make a beeline for a huge burger. We wolf them down while watching sunset at the lake, then walk to our campsite to pitch our wet tents in the dark.
The plan for today was to do a 45 km roadwalk that isn't part of the official trail. Why? Because Marie wants to have a continuous footpath and to achieve that we have to walk on a long high-speed road around lake Wakatipu.
The first 20 kms are fine, nice even, with lovely side trails leading us into forest and along lakeshore. But after that, the road narrows and the shoulder vanishes, leaving us without escape between a rock face and a steep drop-off. It's not safe. We have to listen to the promise we made to ourselves; to hitch when it becomes risky.
So that's what we do, and luckily the second car stops - surprisingly already carrying one of our hiker friends! We need a couple more hitches, all equally fun and interesting, to reach the trailhead on the other side. Here we set up camp next to a river, from where we'll be continuing on foot again tomorrow.