Daily journal of my 3000km hike across New Zealand, Te Araroa, the Long Pathway.
For the first time in 1200 kilometers, I'm walking alone. Marie didn't feel like carrying 10 days worth of food (reasonable) and I don't want to leave the mountains halfway to resupply in town.
So we'll split up for now and reunite later, which I'm already looking forward to. In the meantime, it's also exciting to have the freedom to choose my destination for the day impulsively, and push further if I feel like it.
Today has been a long and rainy day, with lots of elevation gain and beautiful bush. Reward at the end of the day: a spacious hut with the luxury of a FLUSH TOILET! A much appreciated rarity in the mountains.
Rain, rain, rain! After a very wet morning in the clouds, I had a few hours of dry steep ascending before the next downpour. Many hikers have decided to leave the mountains and wait for better weather - but not me!
Call me brave, call me foolish, but my legs feel strong and honestly I'm just excited to keep going. Also, there's nothing like a misty forest. And at the end of the day, for a minute or 5, I was rewarded with a mountain view from the hut - yay!
Finally... after days of unrewarded pushing through rain and clouds, I finally see some beautiful mountain views stretching out before me. What a magnificent feeling! 😍
It was simply a fantastic day, with many tough ups and downs, lots of scrambling and scree. I climbed two peaks and saw mostly clouds. When I was the first to arrive at the hut it was pouring down, so I could just run onto the grass naked and have my shower there. A pretty glorious feeling too.
What a day! Long, great, challenging. I started with surprisingly nice weather, overcast but not IN the clouds (so I still had some views). The trail was beautiful and I moved quickly. By 2 pm I arrived at the hut that I was planning to stay in. I had some food and wondered... Should I go further?
I decided so, even though I knew rain was probably coming and I would be doing a rough section with some narrow ledges along high cliffs.
... And yup, not much later torrential rain started and yup, it was tough going and a little sketchy at times indeed. But after many river crossings, steep climbs, fallen trees, creepy ledges, wasp encounters, slippery roots and other obstacles I finally arrived, proud and alive, at the next hut by 7.
It was nice to see some familiar faces inside, and luckily there was a bunk left for me. I quickly made some dinner, warmed up by the smoky fire and crawled into my sleeping bag at sunset.
It kept raining and raining, so the rivers kept rising and rising, and now... I'm stuck in the hut. Together with the 4 other friendly hikers that are taken hostage by the weather, we spent the day bumming around, reading, looking out of the window and trying not to eat all our food.
Luckily, the weather for tomorrow looks better and hopefully the river level will drop overnight.
Another long hard day, with lots of variety in landscape and some stunning views. I'm loving the mountains, the wild trail, being remote. But today I'm also hungry (hangry really), mentally fatigued and a little homesick.
Crossing over to the South Island, I had this irrational 'almost there' feeling. Now, looking at the map, I realise that I have a looooong way to go. A beautiful way, I know that, and I'm still excited. But I guess the mental challenge has begun...
The last kilometers of the Richmond Ranges! But not the easiest ones, with 3 long ascents and lots of switchbacks before finally reaching the highway. One good old roadwalk later I'm back in civilisation, which I celebrate with a pie and L&P. Dinner is a huge and tasty pizza with friends, a good way to end my 100th day on trail! 🥳
Hey, a day with torrential rain again! A good excuse to have a rest day in St Arnaud. I move from the shitty sandfly campsite I stayed at to the fancy lodge in town, an excellent decision with the 40 millimetres of water that's being dumped on us by the clouds. We watch the rain come down from the spa pool, followed by another large pizza at the restaurant. Life is good!
The actual TA route is a stroll along the lake, but I opt for a mountain alternative, climbing up high and then following a ridgeline. Despite the weather forecast being great, I find myself in rain and dark clouds again. But every now and then, the sun peaks through and reveals an incredible view. All in all it's a pretty nice hike, but what makes it really worth the effort it is the incredible lake where I pitch my tent for the night. 💕
In the never ending battle 'Alexa vs. NZ bandits': last night a gang of mice tore my trash to tiny pieces in search of a few crisp crumbs. They left a confetti of wrappers and emptied their tiny bowels in my raincover, but luckily didn't chew on my bag. Otherwise I woke up to a stunning morning, with a blue sky and sunrise over the lake. I spent some time playing in the mountains, climbing Angelus Peak ⛰️ (2075m) and eventually got back on the actual TA trail. The day was full of sun, beautiful views, waterfalls, great trails and of course a cold dip. Does it get any better? I'll answer that one for you: no. 😃
Another marrrrrvelous day! First I climbed up to a mountain saddle with stunning views, then I steeply descended 1000 meters (aaaaargh my knees) to a beautiful forest/river section. Also, today I passed the 2000 km mark! Feels like I'm getting closer to Bluff (the endpoint) 🙂
Today I feel like the luckiest girl in the world! After conquering the Richmond Ranges in rain and cloud, I finally get my reward: a sunny blue sky on the Waiau Pass, known to be one of the most beautiful days on the entire Te Araroa trail - which I can now say is true 😍
I'm hiking with a huge smile on my face all day long. Long steep ascents, a challenging way down - no problem at all with these glorious views. Everything is unmistakeably breathtakingly stunning, no words can describe how beautiful it is here. There's something new to gawk at around every corner and I take many breaks to just take in all the beauty. Wow.
Woop woop! Finally making some distance on the South Island. Walked a marathon today, because it was 'flattish'. Except for the 1000 meters elevation gain and drop. Most of it hidden in a gentle gradient, some of it more obvious in the form of actual ascents. Anyway, it was all very beautiful again, walking through endless golden fields between the mountains, with the grass waving in the wind. And I spotted a deer in the forest!!
An easy 14 kilometers through forest and mountain valley get me back to civilisation - or well, to a big road. From there I hitch to Hanmer Springs for a rest day and resupply, and for a delicious pie, lots of fruit and veggies and very yummy Indian food 😍
REST DAY.