Wellington
Levin to Cook Strait

Daily journal of my 3000km hike across New Zealand, Te Araroa, the Long Pathway.

Day 7️7️ | 15 km | Poads Road - Te Matawhai

Yaaaay, finally we start walking again! After 5 days of rest both our legs and minds are impatient to continue the hike. Especially because we will enter the Tararua mountains, a section that is notorious for being tough and windy, but also known to very be beautiful.

The trail starts with a gentle uphill through a forest, quickly changing into a more steep and challenging climb. But it's gorgeous all around us, so we barely notice the hard work we're doing. In the afternoon we pop out from between the trees onto a ridge, that we follow until we reach the mountain hut we're sleeping in tonight.

Day 7️8️ | 8 km | Te Matawhai - Dracophyllum Hut

IT IS STUNNING HERE!!! I could write all about my day, how tough the trail was, how deep the mud was, how beautiful the views were, how cute the two-bunk mountain hut we slept in was... but really, the pictures say it all.

Day 7️9️ | 9 km | Dracophyllum Hut - Anderson Hut (diversion)

Waking up to a clear blue sky, we already know: this is going to be another fantastic day. This is the weather we waited for during our days in Levin, and it was 1000% worth it. We decide to spend an extra day in the mountains and add a little diversion to our itinerary.

From the first minute of walking, the views are stunning. Most of the day we walk over a mountain ridge, the rest is spent in a mossy mystical forest. Arriving at the hut, there's plenty of space left and we enjoy a sunny afternoon on the deck.

Day 8️0️ | 9 km | Anderson Hut - Maungahuka Hut

More mossy forest, more stunning ridgeline, more spectacular views. And all as enchanting as the previous days. Reaching the first summit, it was still covered in a thick mist, which gradually lifted while we walked along the ridgeline. The sun quickly melted the frost-rimmed leaves, colouring them green again. And while the mountain panorama was slowly unveiled, full circle rainbows kept appearing in the valley. It was a magical thing to witness.

Hiking today was tough and slow, ploughing through overgrown tussock and scrambling up hills. But when we finally reached the hut, it turned out to be one with a million dollar view! 🤩

Day 8️1️ | 18 km | Maungahuka Hut - Parawai Lodge

After a spectacular sunrise, we set off to a feared landmark in the Tararuas: a long steel ladder against a rock face. To reach it, we have to do a decent amount of sketchy climbing. Luckily , the ladder itself is scary looking but easy to go up. It's the trail after that really triggers our anxiety: steep peaks with chains, vertigo-inducing descents and muddy ledges along the mountain. But we survive! And feel more alive than ever.

The rest of the day we climb up, up, up, until we reach the final ridgeline, from where we descend 1600 meters to nearly back at sea level. We have a river swim in the sun and excitedly pitch our tents again, which hadn't been used in over a week.

Day 8️2️ | 28 km | Parawai Lodge - Waikanae

Got myself in trouble by not paying attention (story of my life). I casually walked while looking at my phone to pick out some music. After some 50 meters I turned around and wondered: hmmm, how did I get here? I quickly glanced at my map and it seemed right enough.

So I walked on, ignoring the cobwebs, a clear indicator of having gone the wrong way. I started crossing a slip, thinking: wow this is way too dangerous to be the TA trail! Only then, in an awkward position halfway the slip, I bothered to check my map again. Whoops... yes. Wrong way.

Anyway, once back on trail everything was fine and at the end of the day I reached civilisation again.

Day 8️3️ | 25 km | Waikanae - Paekakariki

It's warm, it's sunny, it's summer! After a slow start of the day with a flat white and new friends, we follow a lovely trail towards the coast. Today we're walking on the beach for the last time until the end of the trail, and we have the perfect weather for it. We hike barefooted through water and over the sand, go into the dunes for a stunning little side-trail and celebrate the end of beach walking with a dive into the sea. We pitch our tents on a beautiful grassy hill from where we can see the sun sink into the ocean. Truly a perfect day! 👌

Day 8️4️ | 26 km | Paekakariki - Porirua

There are many highlights during te Araroa and some have more to do with food and coffee than with the stunning scenery. This morning it was the most magical almond croissant I've ever eaten, warm and crispy and perfect, straight out of the oven 🥐😍

After that we hiked the Escarpment track in the blazing sun, had a delicious but expensive lunch in the shade, went for a swim in the sea and had many enjoyable short breaks. To compensate for our lavish food choices, we freedom camped in a random place next to the trail.

Day 8️5️ | 31 km | Porirua - Wellington

Lovely day of ups and downs over the hills towards Wellington, slowly getting closer to the last kilometers of the North Island. With every ascend we get a better view of the Windy City, that is certainly honouring its name today. We are blown away by it, literally (although the locals ensure us it gets way worse).

Day 8️6️ | 12 km | Wellington - Wellington

Woohoo, today Marie and I finished walking the length of the North Island! 🎉

Coincidentally it's also my birthday, so there's plenty reason to party. Marie made me walk around town covered in balloons. Afterwards, we celebrate our North Island victory and my aging with lots and lots of food, drinks and fun, managing to stay awake until 3 am - which is an achievement in itself.